Great wines from Oregon beyond the Willamette Valley
The vineyard is currently planted with an eclectic mix of grape varieties including Gewürztraminer, Albariño, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, but she hopes to add Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and, in a wine block. sparkling wine, pinot meunier and pinot blanc.
“The very sour whites are what sings here,” she said.
“Sing” is the right word for its lively and energetic wines. The 2020 vintage was lost to smoke from the wildfires, but its all-new 2019s include a tangy, creamy and quietly lingering edelzwicker, a blend of white grapes; a textured and subtle Pinot Gris; a bright and mineral Viognier; and a Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc with a flash of acidity.
Ms. Brennan Bissell, 37, exudes a sense of wisdom as a winemaker who believes in history and classics, not just what’s hot. At the same time, she won’t reject styles for no reason. She says she is inspired by Caravaggio’s painting, “David with the Head of Goliath”, which she interprets as humility killing pride.
“I like the idea of building my practice, not with the influence of others, but with what is beautiful to me,” she said. “I think of it like making a perfect pot of rice. It may take 30 years to achieve this.
Among Gorge’s new wave, Steven Thompson and Kris Fade are veterans. While the region’s vineyards date back to 1852, the modern era began in 1968, Mr. Thompson said. He and Mrs Fade, business partners, founded Analemma in 2010, first making wine only from fruit they bought, supplemented more recently by their estate vineyard in Mosier, Ore.